Steps from the Lafayette subway exit, this American bistro has the feel of an old train station lounge. The marble-topped bar up front sits beneath a vaulted ceiling lit with Edison bulbs. In back, a tight semicircle of banquettes surrounds seating for 40. In between, Perry St. alum chef Tyler Kord turns out a short list of ambitious dishes from a tiny kitchen open to the peering eyes of the chic neighborhood crowd...
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